{Collins} Safely Cleaning Equipment
I agree it's best to just clean the dust off only and for the really nice
stuff this is probably all that's really necessary anyway. For this I
partially disassemble the equipment and using an assortment of brushes and a
shop vac with the hose on the discharge side generally can get everything
looking pretty good here. There is a caution here however, be sure to tape
over the metal bands on the brushes to prevent scratching IF cans, etc. This
would be followed with careful light lubricating of moving parts remembering
that a radio is 50% mechanical construction (and 50% electrical). There are
those times that warrant some kind of washing however and for this I endorse
and have used the Bill Carns method observing the cautions he listed. As an
interesting sidenote about eight years ago I washed an otherwise nice but
very dirty NC-283D in much the same way observing those cautions but in
addition while still wet I rinsed off and sprayed everything down with WD-40
to displace the moisture. I stayed with it of course to force evaporate the
Stoddard solvent carrier with the blow dry method and left out on the deck in
the sun it was ready to work on later that afternoon. I followed with a
careful wiping off of everything with shop towels as much as possible to
remove the excess and the result was a shiny clean much more presentable and
enjoyable chassis to work on. I have seen the claims and flames of many that
WD-40 is nothing more than Stoddard solvent kerosene in a can, that it is
corrosive, will cross link and harden, gum up, etc., but after eight years I
have just not seen any evidence of this. That receiver still looks as shiny
and works as good as the day I cleaned it and the bandswitch and all controls
still operate smoothly and quietly. I just have not had to go back to address
anything that the naysayers have warned about. In addition the chassis, the
entire assembly really, has a measure of corrosion protection everywhere now,
something that the wash only proponents don't have. WD-40 is not just
Stoddard solvent. True, it is mostly Stoddard solvent as that is used as the
liquid carrier which is used to distribute the ingredients. The carrier is
meant to evaporate and does evaporate soon afterwards. It also contains a
light mineral oil and beeswax. It is these ingredients that give the product
the properties that I find beneficial to preserving metal surfaces of BAs. It
lubricates too of course due to the percentage of mineral oil content. Again,
please let me repeat, Stoddard solvent does not lubricate anything, it is the
oil content that is left behind that does the lubricating. In my experience
here the life of that lubrication has been good enough that it has not had to
be treated with anything again. I have used DeOxit before and it works too
but it also is mostly Stoddard solvent. Other similar types of sprays with
different ingredients are CRC and Cimguard. Cimguard is an industrial spray
with a specific rust prevention package. After trying several I have obtained
the best results with the WD-40. It leaves behind a slightly waxy film but is
in no way objectionable (to me) like some of the alternatives. IMHO you are
wasting your time looking up Material Safety Data Sheets to prove or disprove
contents claims. Manufacturers are only required to list ingredients that
would pose a risk to public health or safety. Proprietary ingredients that
pose no health risk will not be listed. The actual breakdown of ingredients
can only be found by laboratory spectral analysis which we have done here for
other things and even then the results are inconclusive.
Flame suit on............
Regards, Greg Gore; WA1KBQ
In a message dated 7/2/2002 9:48:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
billcarns2@xxxxxxx writes:
> Well, it has been a while since this was gone over well and there are many
> newcomers, so here goes.
>
> After restoring Collins for almost 20 years, that comment about using
> Simple
> Green and then finding the corrosion really got to me.
>
> Here are my strongest recommendations.
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