Re: {Collins} [Bulk] Re: [Bulk] 220V for 30L-1



Hi Bob...thanks for your nice comments.
I should have said that my 30L-1's have 572-B's instead of 811-A's.
Just about all the problems with the 30L-1's are caused by the 811-A which
is operated beyond its ratings. The rest of the amp is pretty tough.

The old JAN 811-A's were much better than what is available today so the
572-B is the most important mod for this unit.
I've used the Taylor and Svetlana brand and both perform just fine in this
application.
As an aside....my amps are tuned up to 950watts out for a few seconds then
talked on SSB with a KWM-2 or 32S-3 to mid scale ALC. 
Don't try this with any 811-A.

But....as a test I have held them on tune for at least a minute in an
attempt to break the weakest link.
The transformer is the strongest link.....I've been hauling around a NIB
30L-1 transformer for 17 years and haven't needed it yet.
To get this performance and reliability the amp should be operated on 220v,
have the YK power board, have 8A instant not slo-blo fuses and otherwise be
in good condition. 
The glitch resistor(s) R17 and R18 are too slow to blow in case of a
problem.
I replace these with a single 5~ 5Watt power (tub, sand, cement) resistor
which is really a wirewound resistor in a ceramic tub.
These will open much faster than the old carbon resistors and protect the
power supply.
The original 30L-1 had a 6A fuse which usually was a slo-blo. A Collins
service bulletin replaced those to 8A fast-blo.


Dave Harmon
CCA 97-535
K6XYZ[at]sbcglobal[dot]net
Sperry, Ok.


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob W5UQ [mailto:W5UQ@xxxxxxx] 
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2012 8:03 AM
To: 'collins'
Subject: [Bulk] Re: {Collins} [Bulk] 220V for 30L-1

while I agree with David's advice completely, and do not want to detract
from his excellent advice, I'd like to point somethingelse out that this
brings to mind.  Something that I've been guilty of many times until I
consciously made an effort to "back off".

Of course the 30L1 may have a bit more power out on 220VAC, but the amount
of power out that is gained is not significant in the perceived signal level
at the other end.  However, the stability gained IS an advantage.

It's this mentality I'm addressing, thatso many of us are trying to squeeze
out "just a few more watts".

The difference between 600 and 650 watts is not worth the risk.  I'm
suggesting that if our amps are rated, let us say, at 650 watts, that we let
them coast at 600 watts or even lower.  Actually, running 600 watts isn't
going to be enough lower signal level to 700 watts that it is worth the
"squeezing" and possible damage to your linear amp.  The difference is
basically unperceptive to the human ear.

Understanding this could add life to your linear.  It could even add less
stress to the operator.  And it might even get you to calling the DX faster.

I know, the magnanimous pileups.  Like the current HK0NA, PJ4C and VP6T
pileups.  Not just SSB and CW pileups, but the RTTY pileups. (and you'd
better run lots less power on RTTY or your linear WILL choke)

These pileups seem to make us want to squeeze 30 or 50 more watts out,
thinking it will may make a significant difference.  If you are running
50 watts output, getting 50 more watts out probably will make a difference
at the other end.  However, give that a try too and you will see that isn't
as much as we think it will be.

Good operating skills and wise calling increase one's chances a lot more.

Have a good week.
Bob
"just my two bobs worth......well, maybe just one Bob."



On 1/22/2012 8:11 PM, Dave Harmon wrote:
> Hi Rick...
> Others may disagree....but the reality is that 220v operation will 
> give more stable performance without the line voltage wiggling and 
> possibly getting complaints from another room about the lights flashing
dimmer and brighter.
> The rig will run more power output due to the more stable line voltage 
> hence more stable and higher B+ on the PA plates.
> In addition the filaments tend to cool off during voltage dips on 120v 
> operation....not so on 220v.
>
> I have 2 30L-1's with the YK board and both of them have 950watts out 
> on keydown output...on 220v of course...the much stiffer line voltage 
> really helps.
> I also have a Henry 3K-A and a Henry 3K Classic MKll which are real 
> rock crushers and are powered from the same line.
> I have a single 220v line to the shack (spare bedroom) with a single 
> dryer outlet in the wall and a single floor cable which terminates in 
> several metal electrical boxes screwed to the bottom of the operating
positions.
> Then, the desk top amps plug into the nearest receptacle under the 
> desk(s) and a couple of more cables from the Henrys plug in there as well.
> Also....I use a 12AWG rubber covered 5/8" o/d cable with a male plug 
> to fit the dryer receptacle lying against the baseboard of the room.
> This cable and the cables from the Henrys are covered in that split 
> black plastic because the cable will put black marks on the wall paint.
> The breaker is a 30A double.
> All available from ACE, Lowes, Home Depot etc.....
>
> So....as you said a 'Y' connector...well not really...just an extended 
> cable from the wall connector to the bottom of a couple of operating 
> desks where there are several 220 receptacles for the 30L-1's and Henrys.
> Normally I only have one amp turned on at a time but the 30A breaker 
> would easily handle more than one amp.
> This works well without a lot of hassle....I've done this in 2 
> different homes in 2 states now and never had a moments trouble and I 
> get the best performance possible from the amps. Install it and forget it.
> Highly recommended.
>
> Dave Harmon
> CCA 97-535
> K6XYZ[at]sbcglobal[dot]net
> Sperry, Ok.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: wa1rkt@xxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:wa1rkt@xxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2012 6:15 PM
> To: collins
> Subject: [Bulk] {Collins} 220V for 30L-1
>
> Is 220VAC (vs 110VAC) for the 30L-1 really that much of an advantage?
>
> I have two 30L-1's, one of which is in daily operation and the other 
> of which is undergoing restoration. The one in daily use is 110V and 
> the one being restored is 220V. The 110V one plugs into a standard 15 
> amp circuit and works just fine, and gives me around 600 watts peak 
> output on 20 meters (which is the only band on which I have used it 
> extensively). That one will soon be connected to one of two dedicated 
> 20-amp circuits I plan to have installed in the shack in the next few
weeks.
>
> I have two 220V outlets in the shack but both are in use, and it will 
> be mildly inconvenient to have to use the other 30L-1 on 220 when I 
> finish restoring it. So, I'm considering converting it back to 110 and 
> using it with one of the two dedicated 20-amp circuits.
>
> Is this something I'm likely to regret? If it makes that much 
> difference I suppose I could have another 220V circuit installed, or make
up a "Y"
> adapter cable to share one of the existing 220V outlets between two 
> amps (they will never both be run at the same time).
>
> Rick WA1RKT
>
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_______________________________________________
SHARE THE FUN: JOIN THE COLLINS COLLECTORS ASSOCIATION TODAY !
http://www.collinsradio.org/membership/

 NETS: Tues & Thur: 3.805 MHz-2000 Central + Fri: 3.895 MHz-2000 Pacific
  SUNDAYS: 14.263 MHz-2000 UTC  +  AM Net: 29.050 MHz-1200 Central
  1st Wednesday AM Net 3.880 MHz-2000 local (ET, CT, MT, PT)

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