Re: {Collins} Step-start for 30L-1 - Good idea?

In my opinion....there is no need for an 'in-rush' current device.
The power supply....even the original Collins power supply....was designed
to operate without such a device.
Of course...the tubes have their own problems....but there is no 'in-rush'
problem that affects them.

The problem here is as others have mentioned and is well known....that
rocker switch.
This is a similar problem that affects the 32S-x transmitters and the KWM-2
transceivers....electrical and mechanical.
The fix is the same for an electrical box with a switch on
it....turn on and leave on the rig switch and control the power with the
remote switch.
I use metal conduit boxes with 2 side-by-side single switched outlets on all
Collins equipment that transmits RF.
This completely solves these problems and does not damage or require any
disassembly or mods in any way.

If someone decides to build one of sure to get the commercial
grade switched receptacle....the contacts for the sliding plug blades are a
lot wider and will easily carry the current.
For the 30L-1 wired for 240vac I use a standard 10A double barred breaker
instead of a switched receptacle.
I wire the breaker to an appropriate socket in the box.


David Harmon
CCA 97-535
Sperry, OK

-----Original Message-----
From: Collins [] On
Behalf Of Rick Poole WA1RKT
Sent: Tuesday, November 4, 2014 2:04 PM
To: collins
Subject: Re: {Collins} Step-start for 30L-1 - Good idea?

Someone emailed me privately, questioning the need for a step-start in the
30L-1, saying that "Those 811A's can take the initial surge.  Have you ever
heard of a failure related to the in-rush current?".  Good point... no I
have never personally hears of a failure so related (which doesn't
necessarily mean anything).  But I am also in the process of restoring a
Heath Warrior (4x811A) and someone whose opinion I respect advises I should
consider putting a step-start in that.

So, what say all of you?  Would a step-start be worth the effort and expense
($30 plus shipping) for the 30L-1?  Perhaps for no better reason than to go
a bit easier on the on-off switch, which I'm told is subject to burnout and
is a real bear to get at if it needs to be replaced?

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